It Was Mayne-ly About the Beer
September 2019
Leading up to a recent trip to Mayne Island I had asked a number of people if they had ever been there and to my surprise very few had. Mayne is no more difficult to get to than either Pender or Galiano but seems to get far less visitors which might suit the island’s residents just fine. The population is very similar to Galiano actually, and despite being far smaller in size Mayne still feels much quieter, perhaps due to the lack of a large marina or provincial campground. For us beer lovers the island’s lone brewery will no doubt give reason enough to hop on over.
Having caught the 4:15pm boat out of Victoria, my wife and I arrived at around 5:30pm and just in time to explore some local dining spots. Our first stop was the historic Springwater Lodge in Miner’s Bay the (equivalent to Mayne’s ‘downtown’). The Springwater, built in 1892, claims to be the oldest continuously operating hotel/bar in the province, cool! In addition to a few offerings of Phillips Brewing they also offered one of the local Mayne Island Brewery beers by bottle. The pub itself looks tired and in need of some love but this adds to a remote charm that was further complimented by an outstanding outdoor eating space that fronts Active Pass and neighbouring Galiano Island.
After a small bite and a beer at the Springwater we took a short stroll to another Miner’s Bay eatery, The Groove Island Kitchen. The Groove had a surprising draught list which included Four Winds IPA, Phillips Chocolate Porter, a few Hoyne offerings and also the Mayne Island Brewery’s Blonde Ale (bottles). The food, service and ambience of this place were top notch but sadly they are permanently closing at the end of September after 5 years of business. After our delicious small bites and beers at The Groove we drove the five kilometers across the length of the island to the cabin we were renting at the Blue Vista Resort in Bennett Bay.
With one full day to explore the island we were out of our cabin by 9am. After snapping a few photos at the picturesque Georgina Point Lighthouse, we tackled the Mount Parke Park trails that lead to the highest point on Mayne. The park has a great network of trails and after 5.5 km and 275 meters in elevation we were back at the parking lot. The hike was well worth the effort and offers an impressive 180 degree view west onto the neighbouring islands. We were running a little ahead of schedule for the 1pm opening time at the brewery which allowed us a few minutes to pop into the Farm Gate Store for lunch. This is a small grocery store and deli counter and was perfect for a quick bite and to browse some of the local craft food items and art.
Left and Middle: Georgina Point Lighthouse at the mouth of Active Pass. Far Right: At the top of Mount Parke Park
Mayne Island Brewing Company is just down the road and the turn off is easily spotted thanks to the prominent sign on the corner. A hundred meters up a small driveway leads you into the gravel parking lot adjacent to the cozy little brew house and tasting room. The limited business hours and standing room often make for a crowded experience but well worth the visit. The lone brew-master/co-owner Michael Garratt borrows inspiration for his styles from his time in Cheshire, England and visiting pubs across Europe before relocating to the Okanagan and later the Gulf Islands in 2005. Michael’s wife Annette designed the stunning artwork/labels associated with the different beer styles. The labels all incorporate an outline of Mayne Island with a different theme/design within. The Mayne Island brewery opened in 2016 making it the the only gulf island brewery in operation aside from Salt Spring Island Ales. All beers are bottle conditioned and styles available during our visit included a kolsch, blonde, English IPA, single hop IPA, a wild saison known as the forager and incorporates an ever changing offering of locally sourced ingredients, and lastly a Belgian tripel. Other popular styles not available during our visit include the 2018 Canadian Beer Awards medal winners Barrel aged Brown Ale and Beet Buck. I was impressed with all of the beer we tried and also with the great range in styles. The J-Pod Kolsch and meatier Little Hell Belgian Tripel evoke a true to tradition feel. The English IPA and Forager Saison, however, went a little off the beaten path in all the right ways. The IPA offered a sweet maltiness while allowing the hops to delicately linger on the palate. The Forager sipped like a classic dry and effervescent saison but this particular batch incorporated lemon balm which lent a subtle yet well balanced refreshing finish.
After returning to our cabin for some down time (and to enjoy a Mayne Island single hop IPA on our patio) it was time for dinner. The South side of the island is home to the Bennett Bay Resort and Bistro and is just a short stroll away from where we were staying. The views rival the Springwater Lodge but the Bennett offers a more upscale ambience and pricier yet well-appointed beach front accommodations. I was glad to see that the Bennett Bay Bistro also offered two Mayne Island beers on its menu in addition to a good selection of 650 ml options.
Inside the bustling Mayne Island Brewery
The next morning we sadly bid farewell to our short lived gulf island oasis and made our way back to the Village Bay ferry terminal. A few additional recommendations for any visitors would have to include a visit to the impressively cultivated Japanese Garden, the Plumper Pass Lock Up which was built to jail rowdies in the 1890’s but now serves as the island’s museum, and lastly the Sunny Mayne Bakery Café which offers a range of in-house soups/sandwiches and desserts to go including the must try and highly addictive croissant donuts. Make sure to take advantage of the BC Ferries “Experience” card for savings on all gulf island routes.
Left: Plumper Pass Lock-up (now a museum) Middle: Our humble abode for the weekend Right: Japanese Garden
A collection of well-kept historic buildings and shorelines crowded with Arbutus trees will ensure some great photo opportunities. In addition, the Mayne Island Brewing Company will provide you with some delicious souvenirs to take back and share with envious friends. Mayne Island offers a limited yet satisfying range of eateries and experiences. If your priority is to keep a busy schedule this is not the island for you. If you’re looking for a small list of activities such as hiking, kayaking, a sleepy Saturday Market or visiting a diamond in the ruff brewery than this little island is worth the short boat ride.