The San Juan Island’s Loop Part 1
May 2016
I can watch the Friday Harbour 4th of July fireworks from Victoria, yet I’ve never set foot on the (barely) American San Juan Island that lies just a short boat ride away. I had never visited Orcas Island, Anacortes/Whidbey Island, or Port Townsend either so naturally that is where our thirst and curiosity recently took Kim and I. By ‘barely American’ I am referring to the Pig War (1859-1872); a bizarre standoff between English and American forces on San Juan Island resulting from a vaguely drawn border and a murdered pig. Ultimately Kaiser Wilhelm I and a neutral commission decided in favour of the island falling South of the border. (but enough history, where’s the beer!?).
Blue = Driving Orange = Ferry
*The Washington State Ferry and Blackball Ferry Line both sell beer/wine that you can consume as you take in the view from the deck.
Take Note BC Ferries!
We landed in the relatively bustling Friday Harbour, San Juan Island on Friday 13th of all days. Bad luck struck quickly as there is no longer a brewery on San Juan! Surprising for the most populated and most visited of the islands. The San Juan Island Brewery closed in 2010 (from beeradvocate.com reviews the beer was not good), and in its place now lies one of the more popular pubs in town, “The Cask and Schooner”. Standard yet tasty pub menu and seafood options with a maritime theme throughout the interior. Kim and I sipped on ‘Old Chub’ ESB by Oskar Blues and a Left Hand Brewing Milk Stout (both on nitro and both delicious), which indicates a solid yet small craft beer menu at the pub. Earlier that day we stumbled upon the San Juan Cheese Co. which deserves a mention for its relaxing garden patio and some great beers/wines available.
Top Left: Lunch at the Madrona Bar; Roche Harbour San Juan Island
Bottom Left: Cask & Schooner Pub; Friday Harbour San Juan Island
Top Right: Orcas Island Ferry Terminal from the Orcas Hotel patio
Bottom Right: Island Hoppin’ Brewery Orcas Island
The following day we did some exploring in several of the Island’s parks and made our way up to Roche Cove Marina/Resort on the northern tip. I’d argue that the rejuvenation of the old industrial harbour is almost Disney-esque in its attempt to lure wealthy boaters, tourists and wedding parties with photo opportunities around every white-washed corner. Nonetheless we had a great lunch at The Madrona Bar & Grill which has a sizeable patio on what feels like an old boardwalk. Kim tried a Fish Brewing Co. Whistling Pig Heffe (Olympia, WA) and I had a Melvin Brewing IPA (Wyoming) both beers I had not heard of before but seemed to be well represented in pubs throughout the islands.
Day Three of our trip and we were catching our second ferry to Orcas Island. We had an ‘Oh $&*@!’ moment as our boat cruised by our anticipated dock but it turns out we were making a pit stop on the nearby Shaw Island to let off a single passenger (how are the Washington Ferries in better financial shape than the BC ferries!). Where were we… ah yes: This island has its own brewery! Orcas Island is known for being the ‘horseshoe island’, as well as having the highest peak in the San Juan’s, Mount Constitution which offers great hiking as well as views as far to mainland USA to the East, Mount Rainier to the South, and our beloved Victoria to the far West. In the crutch of the ‘horseshoe’ lies the island’s village hub of Eastsound, where “Island Hoppin’ Brewery” lies tucked away near the small airport. For any fellow ‘barefoot bandit’ Colton Harris Moore followers out there this airport might be of interest. We had grabbed a quick bite at the waterfront “White Horse Tavern’ en route to the brewery as the brewery itself does not offer food. Once inside, the tight and cozy tasting room was accented with driftwood trim, hanging instruments, and most walls are lined with eye-catching ceramic mugs which are labelled, owned and used by island regulars. Orcas can offer a slight ‘locals only’ feel to it when you’re out and about yet “Island Hoppin’ Brewery” was very welcoming and friendly. This is the sort of place you could really let time sail as you navigate your way through their seven brews and watch locals stumble back and forth down the gravel path towards the patio. Some beers of note; ‘Feel the Bern’ Chile Blonde fit with the many Bernie Sanders lawn posters we noticed in the islands and had a nice spicy kick to counter the traditionally refreshing Summer beer style. The Coffee Porter was one of the best I’ve had despite not being my usual go to style, actually tasting like fresh cold brew coffee rather than the stale grounds flavour that can commonly occurs. The 7.2% IPA was very nice hitting on all of the pine, grapefruit, melon and malt notes that make for a big and balanced hop bomb. Back at our lodging near the ferry terminal we walked over to the turn of 112 year old Orcas Hotel for a late bite. I nursed a Skookum Brewing’s “Murder of Crows” imperial stout as we gazed out the window at the last departing ferry of the day along the narrow Harney Channel.