The San Juan Island’s Loop Part 2
May 2016
After our brief stops on San Juan and Orcas Islands (featured in part 1 of 2) it was time to head back to the ‘mainland’. While geographically made up of several islands, the Anacortes, Fidalgo, and Whidbey communities are connected to mainland Washington via several bridges. After a short drive from the ferry terminal into Anacortes, we parked the car and took a quick walk to survey our surroundings. In comparison to our earlier destinations, the industrial ship yard and turn of the century hotels/storefronts in ‘old town’ Anacortes felt urban and gritty.
Blue = driving (Victoria to Sidney, Anacortes to Whidbey, and Port Townsend to Port Angeles)
Orange = Ferry (Sidney to San Juan and then Anacortes via Orcas, Whidbey to Port Townsend, and Port Angeles to Victoria)
A short walk down the main drag brought us to the Union Tavern Local 902. The large chalkboard tap list (18 taps) was visible through the window from the sidewalk and we were soon at the bar giving it a closer inspection. Originally a gas station, the building retains a modern industrial theme that fits well with the old town. We sipped on a 7 Seas Summer Pale Ale (Gig Harbour WA), and a Firestone Walker Union Jack IPA (Paso Robles, CA) and ordered the happy hour chicken tacos. I have to say the tacos were the most depressing thing I’ve been served in a long time, so maybe stick to the liquid snacks here.
After checking into our nearby B&B we walked back down into the old town district to find the Anacortes Brewery/Rock Fish Grille. They are separate store fronts but I believe they are one in the same (akin to Swan’s Pub/Buckerfield’s Brewery). We were seated at a window table in the otherwise long and dark space. I was looking forward to visiting here but it felt tired and neglected inside. Kim and I both ordered a flight and while none of the beers were terrible, none were terribly impressive to us either. Nonetheless the Rock Fish grill was busy for a Monday afternoon, priced low, and I could sense that it would fill up with thirsty shipyard workers and tourists alike on any given night.
Top Left: Beachfront Patio of the Pourhouse; Port Townsend
Botton Left: Toby’s Tavern in Coupeville
Top Right: Propolis Brewing in Port Townsend
Bottom Right: Water Street Hotel in Port Townsend
On the recommendation of our host, we had dinner at the A Town Bistro. Once through the discreet storefront, the restaurant carried a large open feel. We enjoyed a squid appetizer, vegetarian ravioli and salmon dish. A nice surprise was ordering a bottle of both Hair of the Dog Brewery’s ‘Fred’, and an Evil Twin Brewing’s Gose to finish up.
After just the one night in Anacortes we were travelling down the island to catch a ferry from Coupeville to Port Townsend. Along the way we stopped at Deception Pass for a quick hike around the park. The bridge spanning the pass stretches over a quarter mile long and at 180 feet above the busy narrows below. I was hoping to spot a few Growlers in the area – and no I’m not referring to the refillable beer jug, but the Boeing EA-18G jets stationed at the Whidbey Island Airforce base. Not far into our drive we could see and definitely hear the noisy jets practicing aircraft carrier take offs and landings; the flight path taking them directly over our route to the ferry. With some time to burn before our ferry, we popped in to Toby’s Tavern found along Coupeville’s waterfront. Old false front shops and restaurants line the narrow street along the shore and we were glad we made the detour. The backsides of the old buildings dangle over the high tide on creosote soaked pier timbers and a long dock provides a great view of seaside Coupeville. Toby’s itself made me think of a nautical themed Big Bad John’s, replace peanuts on the floor with mussels on the pass bar and bingo. They had a few craft beer choices, including their quaffable Toby’s Parrot Red Ale from the nearby Anacortes Brewery.
Kim and I instantly took to picturesque Port Townsend. We checked into the historic Water Street Hotel, and headed down Water Street towards Port Townsend Brewing. At $1 per taster and with beers like “Beast Mode” DIPA and Yoda Green Tea Golden Ale we were off to a good start. The large tasting room feels a little stale, but they also have a large outdoor beer garden with a music stage. I like my DIPA’s, Tripels, and Imperial Stouts like the next guy, but one takeaway from the trip is that lagers and pilsners were hard to come by. I’m not sure if the smaller breweries we visited shy away from bottom fermented styles, or if there’s just not as big of a market for them.
Nestled in amongst the boat yards with Port Townsend Brewery is The Pour House. Noticeably busier and fresher feeling than the brewery, it felt like the local’s favorite. Beer prices were higher but some great choices were available; Breakside Brewing’s ‘Oligarch’ Bourbon Barrell aged Russian Imperial Stout for example. Check out The Pourhouse website and click on the live webcam pointed at their tap list chalkboard – neat and simple solution for an up to date tap listing that I have never seen before. A short hop down the road and through a narrow path took us to Propolis Brewing. Several staff were present setting up for their opening the next day and they were not pouring beer. They were kind enough to walk us through their offsale options and we walked away with a few bottles of their refreshingly unique brews. Now that I’ve tried a few of these beers I can say they are incredible (and also pricey) such as a wine barrel aged Gruit, a spruce Saison, and a Farmhouse Dubbel brewed with yarrow hyssop and thyme. Propolis had a small brewing space in Seattle and now have their full brewery/tasting room open in Port Townsend. I’d highly recommend a trip down to PT to check them out, especially if organic, locally sourced herbs/botanicals are your thing.
After a great tapas style dinner at Alchemy, and French bistro inspired breakfast at Sweet Laurette Bistro, we were back in the car and headed to Port Angeles.A quick lunch at Next Door Gastropub and we were back in the car boarding the majestic M.V. Coho and headed back to the land of Creepy Uncles and Fat Tugs.